Overlanding in Oman - an 11-day road trip Itinerary (with a few luxury perks woven in!)
- ParadoxTravel
- Mar 21
- 18 min read
Updated: Mar 29
This itinerary is Part II of our first Middle East adventure. In Part I, we covered the 5 nights we spent in Dubai and it's surrounding desert area. In it, we provided you with a day-by-day plan for seeing what we believe is the best of that area. Now, in Part II, we switch gears and cover our road trip in Oman, including the terrific photography and overland camping spots we found, as well as the different off-road routes we explored. We were fortunate to know a couple that we met on previous trip, who now live in Oman. We kept in touch via social media and let them know we were coming to their area for a visit. They not only gave us many additional tips and terrific ideas that really enhanced our trip, but they were generous enough to host us for a night! I love reconnecting with people we meet in our travels! So without further delay, let's get to it!
Our rental vehicle
We rented a Landcruiser Prado, 4x4 3L with a rooftop tent. All camping gear was included with the rental - sleeping bags, pillows, cookware, stove, kettle/coffee pot, lighting, fuel, chairs and a mat.
Rental company - we found Raj at ReadytoDriveMuscat by way of another helpful blog post. His prices were reasonable and he was easy to work with. Nomad Tours also does 4x4 rentals and is the supplier of the rooftop tents for the first company. So perhaps compare prices as well as vehicles offered. Both owners have extensive knowledge and experience regarding where to camp and off-road in Oman
Road conditions - You can easily cover the classic 'Oman North Corner Loop' - traveling from Muscat, down the coast to Sur, across to Bidiyyah and up through Nizwa to Jebel Shams - in a standard vehicle. That entire loop is almost entirely asphalt / paved roads. If you want to go off-road or take less traveled routes that go up onto the Saiq or Salmah plateau, a 4x4 is really helpful and in some cases, required. This isn't just because the roads are gravel in some places, but because of how steep some areas are. **NOTE: there are speed bumps everywhere! Including the most unexpected places and they are often not marked, signed or painted! So keep eyes open or your back (and vehicle) will take a beating!
Lessons and Tips - All that being said, we wished we had rented a 4L engine Prado. Our 3L engine strained on some of the steeps, even in low gear. It sounded like a hairdryer and was sloooow going on steep climbs. If that doesn't bother you, then get the cheapest 4x4 you can. But if you want more power and are going up into some less traveled terrain, then consider springing for a more robust engine.
Gas - Stations are in every town. And they pump it for you. A small tip in local currency for doing so is always appreciated. Although I can't recall the exact price per liter, we didn't spend that much on gas.
Ice - you can get bags of ice easily and cheaply to fill your cooler at most gas stations, grocery stores or convenience store
Wifi/Connectivity - You may have an international plan with your current phone company that covers Oman. But for this trip, we simply paid for e-Sim. For ~ $25 usd we had a HUGE amount of data and text available. We didn't even use it all. But we also didn't stream movies or videos, which might have burned it up more quickly. Download any hiking or terrain maps you have before you arrive, so you can reference them without using your data. Driving while using phone GPS for directions didn't burn up much data.
TIP - if you're traveling in pairs, buy one e-Sim for one phone and then hotspot the second phone from the first one. Then two people can access one e-sim card. Get it?
Cash vs card - Although smaller local restaurants prefer cash, most everywhere we went accepted credit card. If in doubt, ask in advance. We exchanged about $500 usd into local currency. TIP - if you have extra cash leftover in local currency, most hotels will allow you to pay for your stay using a mix of cash and credit card. So use your leftover cash to pay part of your bill when you check out.
Camping in Oman - camping is free and unrestricted. You can camp anywhere that is not private property. That being said, use common sense. I didn't see anyone camping in public areas that was actively being used by day users. If you want a quick synopsis of our favorite spots on this trip, check out Our Top 7 Camp Spots in Oman.
Desert driving - If you want to have a desert experience while in Oman, you can do so in a variety of ways. If you are traveling with only one vehicle, it's highly discouraged to drive alone into the desert. Even experts can get stuck in soft sand. So hire a guide or drive in pairs. You will need to deflate your tires to 15-20psi - any Oman Oil or gas station can do this for you quickly and easily for a few rials ($1-2usd)
There are plenty of overnight camp experiences to choose from. (Here's the one we picked because we wanted a more boutique, private experience). With whatever experience you select, they typically will guide you to the location. (you follow them in your own vehicle OR for an extra fee, they will take you as a passenger in their vehicle). The main 'drag' into Wahiba Sands from Bidiyyah, is wide and fairly easy to drive. Nic equated it to driving in soft snow. If you're following a guide car, simply copy the line they drive, as well as the speed and momentum they use on hills. If you have any doubt in your sand driving ability, pay extra to get a ride.
Our Route
We planned our route in a way that we could add or subtract from it easily and didn't feel pressured to drive long hours each day. At most, distances were 2-4 hours apart, which allowed for many stops, lunch and wadi hiking while still getting us to a camp spot a an hour or so before dark. NOTE: In February, it was dark by 6pm. So finding your camp spot by 3- 4 pm is pretty key, especially in popular areas like Fins Beach or Jebel Shams.
We originally planned to end our route by returning to Muscat by way of the road through Snake Canyon - an infamous, winding, beautiful, off-road gorge area. However, a few days prior, I twisted my back in some way that left me bracing myself over bumpy terrain to minimize spasms. Yuk. By the time we were driving down from Jebel Shams, my dear husband made the call to end my stoic attempts to weather the discomfort, and we returned to Muscat via smoother, paved roads. Below is our day-by-day itinerary with photos and recommendations.
Day 1 - Vehicle pickup and Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque.
First, we picked up the vehicle and all of our camping equipment. Then before we headed to the grocery store, we made a stop at Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque - which is arguably one of the most beautiful buildings I've ever seen. At the time of this post, entry was still free to the non-muslim public on Sat-Thursday (not friday) from 8-11am. It's a definite 'must-see' when in Muscat.
NOTE: Go early!! I mean, at 8am when it opens! As of 9am large tour buses start coming in and you'll find yourself navigating crowds of people. WHAT TO WEAR: Men need to wear pants, and decent shirts (can be short sleeve). Women are required to have shoulders, arms, legs and hair covered. This was easily done with linen cabana pants, a long-sleeve blouse and a loose scarf over my head. If you are not dressed appropriately, there are some female entrepreneurs out front selling long robes and scarves.
After our mosque visit, we did some initial grocery shopping at Al Meera supermart, then did some exploring of the Mutrah Corniche, the port / waterfront area as well as Al-Riyam park. Then we headed out of town.
Activities: Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Mutrah port/promenade, Al-Riyam park
Drive time: 1 hour to camp
Campsite - Yenkit Bay overlook (there may be some new development construction going on as you drive towards this overlook. Don't let it dissuade you. Once through it, the views are beautiful and you'll see far fewer people here, than at the more popular Bandar al Khairan lookout)
Day 2 - Jebel Sifah and a visit with travel friends
Today we headed to Sifah - a beautiful beach community with a housing area where two friends we met on a previous trip, now live. Jebel Sifah is a popular getaway destination not only for locals escaping the city heat, but for ex-pats looking to live in a warmer weather where their currency goes a lot further. The Sifah public beach is just as beautiful and well worth a stop to swim.
Drive time: 45 minutes
Accommodations: our friends place in Jebel Sifah
Day 3 - Yiti, Wadi Arbaeen, Bimmah sinkhole and Fins Beach
Today, we backtracked to Yiti to pick up a few things we forgot to pack for today's Wadi excursion. TIP - bring water shoes or sandals and a quick-dry towel. When hiking to the Wadi pools, your feet will get wet and you'll be walking over bumpy rocks. So you can either purchase some there and leave them (~$10 usd) or bring your own. Just make sure they have some tread on the bottom so the rocks won't hurt your feet. It also helps to have a quick-dry camp towel to dry off a bit before you hike back to your car, as there's not always a good place to change out of wet clothes.
Next we drove the Wadi Al Maih road (unpaved) until it connected with the paved route (17) and then headed towards Wadi Arbaeen. This wadi pool area was quite beautiful, easy to drive to and required very little walking once there. Locals use this wadi pool frequently. So being respectful with your swim attire around their children is appreciated. After a refreshing swim, we grabbed some lunch at a local Pakistani restaurant and headed towards Fins beach to camp.
NOTE: Bimmah sinkhole is also in this area. Although interesting, we felt it was underwhelming. If you're short on time or energy, you won't be missing much if you skip it.
FOOD PLANNING IDEA: Since the sun set so early while there and we don't love cooking in the dark, we opted to eat our largest meal of the day mid afternoon at local restaurants. Not only did this allow us to taste the local cuisine and support the Oman economy, but when we got to camp, we simply set up and then ate lightly or snacked before we went to bed. Breakfast was easy - coffee, fruit and oatmeal / muesli. This made it a lot easier to plan for groceries. Local restaurants were very affordable often only costing us the equivalent of ~ $15 usd for our combined meal. But if you love to cook at camp, cookware, fuel and a basic stove is typically included with your rooftop tent rental.
TIP - Fins beach is very popular. So get there before 4pm for the best spots. Also, this was a great place to see bioluminescent waves crashing on the beach! (see photo)
Restaurants: Star Restaurant
Activities: drive Al Maih road from Yiti, Wadi Arbaeen, Bimmah Sinkhole (maybe)
Drive time: 2.5 - 3.5 hours
Campsite - Fins beach
Day 4 - Wadi Shab and the Salmah Plateau
We purposely selected Fins beach to camp in part because of its close proximity to Wadi Shab. And you absolutely MUST go early for this wadi! We arrived at 7:30am (you can go as early as 7am) and a 45-minute walk later, we were part of the first 20 people arriving at the pools. Thirty minutes later, it was becoming more crowded and by the time we left to walk back around 9:45, droves of people were hiking in. And that was a weekday. The pools of Wadi Shab are absolutely beautiful and the swimming is surreal (especially through the key hole section at the end - which leads to a separate cavern and waterfall!). But in hindsight, I would have gotten up even earlier and started right at 7am. This blog post is an excellent resource on how to get to the wadi and what to expect.
Once we left Wadi Shab, we headed up to the Salma plateau. This area is very drive-able and the gravel/rocky road are in good condition. But a 4x4 with good power and traction is needed as you will drive some of the steepest sections of road with abrupt hairpin turns that I've ever seen in all my travels. Nic said the same thing. Although the steepest corners have been paved for greater traction, one section was so steep and was only one-lane, that I got out and walked (hiked) to the top. Go ahead, you can laugh. I know I'm a ninny about some things. LOL.
The reward at the top of the plateau (5400') is cooler air temperatures and expansive views. This area is also really popular spot with cave explorers, as there are several extensive systems up here. We chose to simply drive the loop (we did counterclockwise, starting here) and then found a camp spot 3/4 of the way around the loop.
NOTE: Google maps is not up to date on roads up here. Towards the middle of the loop, some roads are being replaced and the main loop road is being rerouted. Follow the most obvious road, even if your phone map makes it look like you're going nowhere. It takes you through a small village but will eventually reconnect with the main loop road and take you back towards the ocean.
Drive time: 3-5 hours (based on terrain and your speed)
Campsite - Salma plateau - at this spot which had a terrific view and was protected from wind
Day 5 - Down off the Plateau, to Sur and then back to the Beach
Today we stopped in the coastal city of Sur to restock on groceries, refuel and check out the port town. Sur is a fairly large city. Although there was more traffic than we experienced the previous few days, it was still pretty 'sleepy' the day we went - not much was happening there. But we did a quick drive-through tour and grabbed some lunch.
Next, we initially headed towards Turtle Beach to look for a camp spot, but found the area to be very rocky. And even when we could find a flat space, there wasn't much of a view - which you probably can tell is a prerequisite for most Stover camp sites. In addition, this time of year wasn't right for seeing any turtles. So we drove back towards Sur, checked out Al-Khesah beach but didn't find much to our liking either. Finally, after rooting around a bit longer, we finally landed here, near this small, hidden beach. Although there was a permanent camp set up near the water, it was vacant and quiet this night. And we were able to find a spot above it on the cliff edge....and yes, with a pretty good view.
Drive time: 1-2 hours
Campsite - Overlooking Hidden Beach
Day 6 - Wadi Khalid and an Overnight in the Desert
Today we headed towards Bidiyyah - the gateway town to the Wahiba Sands. This is where we would meet a guide, then follow them to a desert camp location where we'd camp overnight. En route to Bidiyah, we made a morning detour and stopped at Wadi Bani Khalid (our second favorite wadi!) for a swim in their beautiful pools. Although there's a large, more populated pool up front with a snack shop and seating areas, the best pools are at the back and in the middle of the ravine - in fact most people walk right by the best access point as they walk the path towards the end. Which means if you catch it (see photo) you can sneak down and get a private (or less crowded) swim, even if its busy in other areas.
When we were done with our swim, we drove into Bidiyah, had our tires deflated at a local gas station and then met our guide. The drive out to our desert campsite was adventurous both as a driver and passenger! But the location of the private camp was far off the main drag, in between dunes and out of sight from any other camps. There was only one other couple who shared our camp, so it felt like we had the desert pretty much to ourselves for an evening. I'll be reviewing this camp in more detail in an upcoming post. But it was truly an extraordinary experience.
Drive time: 2.5 hours to Bidiyah, 45 minutes each way into desert camp
Activities: Wadi Bani Khalid
Campsite - Stargazer desert camp
Day 7 - A Modern Museum and the Sayq Plateau
The next morning after a hearty breakfast, we drove the 45-minutes out of the desert and back onto paved roads. Today we were heading towards the Sayq plateau with a stop to see an incredible piece of architecture - the Oman Across Ages Museum. The friends we stayed with earlier on this trip had recommended this architectural gem (thanks Alan and Fiona!) and it did not disappoint.
TIP: Even if you only stop to appreciate its modern build, it's a must-stop on your way to Nizwa. We actually paid for entrance and was astounded at the display. Despite only being open since 2023, it was on par with (if not better than) the Smithsonian history museums, both in its design and in its showcasing of Oman's unique culture, history and contributions to the world.
TIP - no zoom lens on cameras and no shorts are permitted inside the museum. Phone cameras are okay.
After spending a few hours around and inside the museum, we headed up to the Sayq plateau. This was another area where a 4x4 vehicle is required, primarily due to the steepness of the climb. There is guard station at the bottom that ensures you have the correct vehicle, mostly to return DOWN the hill safely. The roads are paved, but again extremely steep and winding in many areas. The reward again at near 6000' of elevation was cooler temperatures and an incredible view of the Hajar Mountains. And this night, we opted to take a break from camping, shower and enjoy the comforts of the incredible Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort. Situated at cliff edge, this hotel had some of the most gorgeous views of our trip. And of course, sticking with the 'birthday celebration' theme, we treated ourselves to a room we could have stayed in for a week. Stay tuned for an upcoming, more detailed review of this resort.
Drive time: 3.5 hours
Activities: Oman Across Ages Museum
Accommodations: Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort
Recommended historical accommodation: The Cliff Guest house at Al Suwgra
Camp spot recommendation: We drove by this spot on the way to Al Suwgra - it looked pretty amazing.
Day 8 - Al Suwgra Village, Nizwa and Jabreem
After a leisurely sleep-in and plentiful breakfast, we decided to check out the 500-year old historical village of Al Suwgra. This small village is literally built into the cliffside and if you plan in advance, you can even stay there overnight in their renovated rooms. This historical village hotel comes complete with restaurant, cafe and even pulls your luggage across the small gorge on a pulley. We kicked ourselves for not knowing about it sooner! Al Suwgra is worth the extra time to get there, but it had very limited parking. We walked down the MANY STEPS to access the village and had a coffee at probably one of the most unique cafes ever.
TIP - Even if you don't stay there, it's worth the bumpy drive to see this unique village and enjoy a coffee in their cafe. Be prepared to climb a lot of stone steps.
Next, we spent the afternoon in old town Nizwa, had some lunch and strolled around. We did not tour the Fort (too busy while we were there), but we made time for a photo stop at the Grand Mosque outside of town as we drove on towards Jabreem. After a quick stop to check out the Jabreem castle from the outside (as I mentioned, we're not typically 'tour' or 'museum' types), we headed onward to find a camp spot.
NOTE: Many blogs recommended the Al-Ayn beehive tombs on the way to Wadi Damn. But the area was under construction when we were there, so we couldn't get up to them. We managed to find a different scenic spot to camp anyways.
Drive time: 2.5- 3 hours
Activities: Al Suwgra Village, Nizwa Fort, Jabreem Castle (photo stop), Sultan Qaboos mosque (photo stop)
Campsite - Past the beehive area, at side of road here
NOTE: Nizwa is much bigger city than I imagined! The old town area is of most interest but the streets there are very narrow. Best to park in large lot and walk in.
TIP - If you plan your trip so you pass through Nizwa on a Friday, the local goat market is quite the cultural spectacle. We missed it this time, but based on videos we've seen, its worth planning for if you can.
Day 9 - Wadi Damn, then backroads to Jebel Shams
We started this day by checking out another swimming hole, Wadi Damm. There was some flood-damage repair going on while we were there, but we did walk into one of pools. But this pool was much colder! I opted to stay in the beach, but Nic took a brave plunge. The blog highlighted above does a good job at describing this wadi in more detail.
From Wadi Damm, we took the back gravel road up to Jebel Shams. There has recently been an additional connection of the back gravel roads that lead up to the traditional (paved) Jebel Shams route. So if you have a 4x4, this is another scenic (bumpy) section to explore. Google maps may not show it completely going through and connecting, but it does. Once we hit pavement again, the rest of the drive up to the top of Jebel Shams was steep, but do-able. The views are outstanding and there are several areas for camping, all with epic views. But get there early! (maybe even 3pm?), as the prime spots go early.
TIP: Remember, you'll be at elevation up at Jebel Shams and it can be windy. So bring a lightweight down jacket, a wind breaker and a beanie if you plan to camp up there. It can get pretty cold after the sun goes down.
TIP: One of the most beautiful hikes from the top of Jebel Shams is the Balcony Walk. But in late afternoon and evening, we saw many guided groups (you don't need a guide, it's a straight forward out-and-back trail) starting out to catch sunset on the trail. If crowds are not your thing, a morning hike will have fewer people.
Drive time: 1.5 - 2 hours
Campsite - along the ridgeline at the top of Jebel shams
Day 10 - Back to Muscat (driving a more direct, paved route)
As I mentioned earlier, initially we had planned to exit from our loop route by way of the road to Snake Canyon. It's an infamously beautiful and rugged off-road section in the world of overland adventure. But because I had twisted my back a few days earlier, by the time we were leaving Jebel Shams, my husband made the decision to end my stoic arm-bracing over bumpy roads, and we returned to Muscat via smoother, paved roads. What I've included below are the stops and activities we were planning and that came highly recommended to us. But we ourselves didn't get a chance to do on this trip. Email me and tell us about it if you do!
Recommended stops/activities: Misfat Al Abriyyin, this view point, Bald Sayt
Accommodations: Marriott Muscat airport
Day 11 - Abu Dhabi Culture and a Surprise Ending to our Adventure
The next morning we flew back to the UAE, this time to Abu Dhabi. We picked this location to end our trip not only to see the Louvre Museum and the infamous Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, but we wanted to experience a stay at the equally famous Emirates Palace hotel. Being the end of our trip (and usually the end of our budget), we had selected the most affordable, basic room at this grand hotel. When we checked in, a large East Indian wedding was beginning its traditional, mutli-day celebration. And the hotel was very full. We heard the concierge mumble something about "an upgrade" and assumed it may be a similar room, but in a quieter area of the hotel. Holy crap! Not only did we get a quieter room, we walked into a massive villa room with a full living room, dining area and the largest primary bedroom and bath I'd ever seen in my life! Our jaws pretty much hit the ground. I'll go into more detail in an upcoming review of this gorgeous resort. But in the meantime, know that 'upgrade kharma' does exist!
TIP: Go early to the mosque, before the tour buses arrive!
TIP: Don't bypass the Louvre! It's another architectural wonder and quite an impressive museum.
Activities: The Louvre, Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, and watch for the soon-to-be -completed Arts District
Accommodation: Emirates Palace
FINAL NOTES: Believe or not, that's it! I hope this itinerary (as well as the one in Dubai) gives you some ideas on how to create a diverse, multi-experience adventure in this area of the world. As always, feel free to email with additional questions at Jen@paradoxtravels.com . Cheers!
FAQs
What should I wear at Wadis? You will see everything from skimpy bikinis on tourists who couldn't care less about local customs, to full burkas on local women. Wearing a long-sleeve sun shirt or surf-style rash guard is an easy solution. And if you have some knee length yoga pants or swim bottoms that have more coverage, wear them. Men wore swim trunks and most wore a sun shirt. It wasn't that big of an inconvenience to simply respect local custom. I recommend bringing a small pack with a camp towel and definitely bring some water shoes. You'll appreciate them for hiking and for swimming. Check out these helpful illustrations from TravelinOMan.
Is the water okay to drink? Yes. But it's mostly desalinated water. Which sort of has a distinct taste to it. So either get some flavor packets to mix in if you don't like it, or buy some bottled water. We did a mix of beverages to minimize plastic bottles, saving the purest water for morning coffee. Another note on beverages: sweet drinks are everywhere in the UAE! I found it near impossible to find a beverage other than soda, juice or sweetened drinks. Unsweetened sparkling water was nearly impossible to find. So if you're not a 'sweet-freak' (like me), figure out your water options early so you can stay hydrated.
Which side of the road do they drive in Oman? The right side
Do I need an international drivers License? It doesn't hurt. We already had one. But the company we rented our vehicle from didn't ask for it. It's a cheap and easy thing to get online or at your local AAA if you're not sure.
Do I need a visa to overland in Oman?- Currently for US citizens, no visa is needed if you are staying less than 14 days. Longer than that, yes. If you need one, you can get it easily in the airport before customs and immigration.
Feel free to check out some of our other travel itineraries
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PLUS
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