"You're going where???" - that was probably the most common question we heard from friends and family as we prepared for our trip to Oman and the United Arab Emirates (UAE). Most people nodded in understanding when we mentioned Dubai. This city is known worldwide for its rapid growth in both the real estate and tourist industries, as well as its mind-bending, leading edge architecture. But Oman? The mention of the country had people searching their maps app to see where the heck it was located. Oman is a fascinating, friendly and diverse country that's quickly rising on the 'must-visit' road trip list. It's a long haul to get there, I won't lie. But it was worth it for all that we experienced in the three short weeks we were there.
The reason we planned a trip to this area was twofold: 1) This is the second trip of my choosing to celebrate a 'big decade' birthday year. (you can read about my first trip here) I've always been interested seeing Dubai's architecture and learning more about the Middle East and bedouin culture and 2) Nic has a growing love of Overlanding or Vehicle-Based Adventure Travel. So I thought, why not combine the two? AND why not create the ultimate 'Paradox' travel experience by bookending 10 days of dusty, showerless, off-road exploration with some body-restorative, luxury experiences on either end? And wow, did we ever! Stay tuned for upcoming reviews on each of the marvelous places we stayed. But we stayed at three of the most extraordinary hotels or accommodations we've ever had in all of our travels...all on this very same trip.
This is Part I of our first Middle East adventure, which mostly covers the first 5 days in Dubai and the surrounding desert. Part II covers our overland camping trip In Oman.
So feel free to skim through the photos if that's what you enjoy most. But if you want to read more about our experience or are considering a trip to this area yourself, there's a ton of key, free information in this post. So buckle up, and let me show you how Paradox Travel did Oman and the United Arab Emirates.
NOTE: We paid for this trip entirely on our own and was offered no compensation or incentive to endorse fany of the places we recommend. Paradox Travel is designed as a way to freely share my experience, as well as key information I hope will make it that much simpler for readers who wish to travel to this area, to do so.
The Active
Aside from all the walking we did in the city and through mosques, museums and villages, the active and fun part of this trip was hiking to, and swimming in, the wadi pools of Oman! A wadi is a beautiful valley or ravine that is typically dry in desert regions like Oman. But during rainy season it becomes an oasis of liquid tranquility. Despite Oman's arid landscape, clear, swimmable water pools are the frequent reward for a willingness to do some hiking. Some wadi pools are drive-in, or easily accessed within fifteen minutes of walking. Other wadi pools can take 45-minutes to several hours of walking and scrambling over rocky terrain to access. But once you arrive, swimming through their limestone channels and tunnels can feel almost like a surreal, sacred experience.
The Leisure
When it comes to luxury, few countries do it like the UAE. I mean seriously, the amount of money that has been poured into this area is highly evident. Although my husband describes Dubai as 'loud money' and Abu Dhabi by comparison as 'quiet money', both cities have no shortage of luxury accommodations and experience to offer. It's truly a matter of style, and how much your budget allows. In Dubai and the surrounding desert area, we stayed at The Palace Downtown and Al Maha Desert resort - a surprising part of Marriott's collection. In Abu Dhabi, we stayed at Mandarin Oriental's Emirates Palace. In Oman, we stayed in a low-cost accommodation before our off-road camping road trip. Then we intermixed a stay at this luxury desert camp one night, as well as a stay at the amazing Anantara resort on the Saiq plateau. There are many options to choose from! And I will be posting more detailed reviews of the places we stayed. But you will have no problem finding a luxury pick-me-up to suit your needs.
How to Connect
Typically when we travel, we look for local environmental or education programs we can financially contribute to in some way. This is one way we feel as travelers, that we can make a small dent in reducing our carbon footprint. For this trip, although both the UAE and Oman do have environmental programs, they are already funded by the very wealthy royal families who govern their countries. So the ways I recommend travelers reduce their carbon footprint in these locations is a) travel a time of year where you can walk as much as possible b) since Uber is prevalent in the UAE, select e-cars and hybrid cars over standard carbon-emitting options. And c) continue to exercise all the usual sustainable practices you use at home to minimize plastic use and single-use paper products. I'm confident you can come up with many more examples.
Trip Rating - L3 The UAE is very international and many languages are spoken there, including English. However, learning a few common greetings in the local language goes a long way. Here, it was simply learning to greet locals with, "as-salamu alaykum"(may peace be upon you) or responding with, "Wa alaykum as-salam" (may peace be upon you) if they said it to you first.
When it comes to food selection, Dubai, Abu Dhabi and most major hotels in Oman serve a mix of international cuisines. But an enjoyment of Middle Eastern foods will definitely enhance your experience. Pakastani, Arab, Turkish, Indian and Omani restaurants are abundant. However, there are also a surprising number of major fast-food chains represented as well, like Five Guys, Subway and Kentucky Fried. Yes, you can even get your Starbucks fix here. Grocery stores carry a mix of options. Pork is not readily available in these countries, and alcohol can only be purchased at licensed restaurants, hotels and in the Duty Free in the airports (a limit per traveler).
We used our credit card for 90+ % of purchases, but having local currency for tipping at gas stations (they pump it) and buying small stuff was really helpful. There are some respectful dressing customs I recommend to show respect as a traveler. And for visiting mosques, I will go over the ways women are asked to dress in the FAQs at the end of this itinerary.
Length of trip - 21 days total, including travel to/from. Although it was actually only 20 days by date due to crossing the international date line. We broke our trip down like this once we landed: Five (5) nights in Dubai area, eleven (11) nights in Oman, two (2) nights in Abu Dhabi and then the last night (1) at a Dubai airport hotel before our early international return flight. For us, three nights (and 2 days) in the busy-ness of downtown Dubai was enough to experience and see what we wanted to (imagine the over-the-top vibe of Las Vegas but without gambling, alcohol or strippers). But in retrospect, we would have liked to spend an extra day/night in Abu Dhabi. Especially with the development of the new Cultural District. There's a lot to experience there. And it just felt much 'lower key' than Dubai, which is our preference.
TIP - In hindsight, we'd advise a full day to recover from jet-lag and the 12-hour time difference if you're traveling from the western part of the USA. For our next trip to this area, we plan to spend an extra day/night when we land, simply to adjust. We felt a bit like timezone-shocked zombies the first day in Dubai, which detracted a bit from our experience.
Month of travel
We traveled to this area in February. It didn't rain and temps were close to 80 degrees F (26 C). November to January are also good times of year to travel to the Middle East because of cooler-than-average temperatures. Remember to check when Ramadan occurs each year. Many restaurants and activities may be closed, or close early, during its celebration. In 2025, Ramadan was in March, so we traveled in February to capitalize on the relatively cooler temps before this religious celebration began.
Is this area safe?
As is done in many subject areas, the UAE and Oman often get generalized and lumped together as part of the entire Middle East when it comes to conflict and tourist safety. In Dubai, Abu Dhabi and the places we went in Oman, we felt very safe. If you plan to travel close to the Yemen border, you may need to take more precaution. We felt completely at ease walking at night in the big cities and were approached by many friendly locals over the time we were there. But I also realize I'm speaking from the experience of being a heterosexual traveler. Although it's still illegal to be gay in the UAE / Oman, gay travelers do still come here and enjoy this area. This 2023 blog post gives a more firsthand description of how gay travelers experience Dubai. But from our experience, locals were extremely friendly, curious, frequently expressing their awareness and concern over the recent Los Angeles fires as well as the USA's current lack of leadership. And in case you're wondering, the Arab men talked to me the same way they talked to Nic. I never felt slighted or treated with any less respect or courtesy because I'm a woman. It surely helped that I included their dressing customs within my own wardrobe choices. And if it helps with safety reassurance, remember that these areas not only prohibit or don't heavily support alcohol consumption (which can sometimes contribute to poor behavior when used in excess), they are also big on 'family life' and are financially motivated to make international tourists feel safe.
The Details
How to get there
Flights - We flew roundtrip on Qatar Airlines from Los Angelas to Doha, Qatar (16 hours) , then flew ~1 hour from Doha to Dubai. To get to Oman, we flew from Dubai to Muscat on FlyDubai and then floew from Muscat to Abu Dhabi on Ethiad Air. Oman Air also covers this route. We could have flown roundtrip to/from Dubai, and then driven 90 minutes to Abu Dhabi. It really came down to price of flight on days of week/dates we were looking to fly.
NOTE: Abu Dhabi and Dubai are 'sister' cities and a 90 minute drive apart from each other. Our long-haul international flight was in/out of Dubai. So we started in Dubai, finished in Abu Dhabi and had a trip to Oman/Muscat in between the two - basically creating a triangle of three cities. So to do this, we first bought the best long-haul roundtrip ticket (for us, LAX to/from Dubai), then chose to fly 'open-jaw' (2 one-way flights on two different airlines) to get from Dubai to Muscat, then from Muscat to Abu Dhabi. Then we dove the 90 minutes back to Dubai at the end of our Abu Dhabi visit to complete the 'triangle'. We could have flown roundtrip between Dubai and Muscat on the same (or different) airlines, then driven the 90 minutes (2x) between Dubai and Abu Dhabi. It all came down to the pricing of the combined airfare plus transportation between the three cities on the dates we doing it. There are so many flights, prices and airlines between the three cities, you'll have no problem finding the right combination for your dates and budget.
Ground transportation - Dubai / Abu Dhabi
We decided that we didn't want to deal with driving or parking in Dubai or Abu Dhabi ourselves. Gratefully, Uber is prevalent in all those cities. AND we found an excellent private car service that we felt was reasonably priced, included tip in the upfront charge, and was super easy to communicate with via WhatsApp. They greeted us with sign in the arrivals hall, and communicated with email and WhatsApp regarding driver name, car type and license plate. Plus, the vehicles were really nice! This car service company was excellent. In fact, we used them five times on this trip, including as 6-hour private ride around Dubai. I simply researched the things we wanted to see and do (take a look at what group tours cover to get started) and then he drove us there, waited, then drove us to the next spot. Once while on the trip, we even had to cancel a scheduled / pre-paid driver and rebook a new one to fit a change of plans. And this company (Transfeero) was timely with both the new booking and the refund for the cancelled one.
Ground transportation - Oman
However, Uber does NOT operate in Oman. So we had to take a taxi from the airport to get to our accommodations. This was fairly easy, as taxi's are plentiful and most drivers speak some english. We picked up some Omani currency at the airport upon arrival. Cash seemed to be the preferred payment method for unscheduled taxi rides. For renting our 4x4 Landcruiser Prado with rooftop tent, we used Ready to Drive Muscat. We also met the owner of Nomad Tours who has a wider selection of more robust off-road vehicles, also with rooftop tent. So check out both companies. The owners know each other and often work together.
TIP - If you plan to drive off-road up on the plateaus (which have very steep roads in some places) I'd highly recommend getting a 4x4 with more than a 3L engine. We didn't think it mattered as much as it did. The Landcruiser Prado we rented only had a 3L - which was adequate on flat roads but struggled up steep hills like an overworked hair dryer, even in low gear. So if it fits your budget, it may be worth paying a bit more to get a more powerful engine IF you plan on going up on the Salma Plateau, the Saiq Plateau or up to Jebel Shams. A lower-powered vehicle will still get the job done. But you'd better be patient, it will be slow-going on steep sections.
NOTE - One of the best books you can ever get for planning an Oman Overland or road trip is this one. But at the time of this post, a new one can't be purchased in the USA. So in addition to the book itself costing $60 USD (worth it), you may also have to pay for shipping from the UAE like we did. This cost us nearly as much as the book itself. But remarkably, it arrived within 2-3 days. We'll probably be selling our book as we've gotten our use out of it. So email me if you're interested and live in the USA. I bet we can work something out.
Some of the architectural variety in Dubai and Abu Dhabi
Day 1 - Arrival into Dubai
We arrived in Dubai at night after our long-haul international flight. We were greeted by our Transfeero driver in the arrivals hall, who then drove us 15 minutes to our hotel. Although we slept some on the plane, we immediately went to bed.
NOTE: We picked this hotel because of its terrific location and classic arab style. It was walking distance from the Burj Khalfa, the Dubai Mall, the Khalifa Fountain / Light show (which us a must-see!). This area also sat between the two areas of Dubai we planned to tour. So Uber rides between the Souks of Old Town and the Marina took about the same amount of time.
Accommodations: Palace Hotel Downtown
Day 2 - Exploring Dubai
If we've learned anything throughout our travels, it's to NOT cram too many activities into one day. And to make sure to schedule some downtime every day. So we intentional planned daytime activities from ~9:30-3:30, which allowed for a leisurely morning start and some relaxation before we went out at night.
On this first day, we hired a Transfeero private driver to take us to different spots around the city over a 6-hour period. Our day trip was a mix of 'architecture photo-stops' and locations we wanted to spend more time walking around. I've listed the stops we covered in that 5-6 hours below. That evening after a nap, we watched sunset from the View at the Palms, then had dinner with some fellow travelers we met on our last trip, who were currently living in Dubai - such a fun reconnection! After an amazing meal at this Michelin ranked Indian restaurant, we walked around the Marina enjoying the night lights and the incredible architecture.
NOTE: We are 'selective' museum people, and rarely spend time INside museums unless we find them really special. That being said, we toured two incredible museums that even we found worth our time and money. You'll find out where they are in Part II of this itinerary.
Daytime Activities/Stops:
The Dubai Frame (photo stop only), Museum of the Future (photo stop only), Zabeel Palace (short walkabout), then a drop off at the Gold and Spice souks (lunch and walk around for 60-90 minutes)
Evening Activities:
View at the Palms for sunset, Dinner with friends at Indeego by Vineet, Marina walk
NOTE: We felt it was worth it to pay extra to Fast-Track the line and go the the Next level at View at the Palms. The higher view had fewer people and less visual obstruction for photos than the lower, glassed-in viewing deck. And sunset is a marvelous time to book a ticket.
Accommodations: Palace Hotel Downtown
Day 3 - An Architectural Tour, some Fun, and Dinner with a View
Today we decided to each pick something we wanted to see or do, and the other would go along with it. I've always wanted to see the inside of the infamous sail-shaped building the Burj al Arab. The room prices were far out of our budget. And to be honest, it's not located that conveniently to other attractions. So I picked a tour of it as my selection. The Burj al Arab tour was admittedly a bit 'touristy'. But we did learn how the building was created, got a peak inside some of the royal suites, and enjoyed a cappuccino in their view lounge. For his activity choice, Nic opted for a more playful experience - he wanted to try out the Emirates A380 flight simulator at the Dubai Mall! So that's what we did in the afternoon.
And to top off our time in Dubai, I managed to get a reservation to dine at Atmosphere on the 122 floor of the Burj Khalifa! Located 442 meters above the ground in the world's tallest building, Atmosphere is the highest restaurant in the world. And all I can say is wow! It was an 'investment' experience - just meaning the minimum spend here is more than your average Dubai dinner and definitely something reserved for special occasions. But since this was a 'birthday year' trip, we said, "lets go for it!". The meal and service were terrific, the view outstanding and the overall experience was really very special.
Daytime activities: Inside the Burj al Arab tour, Emirates flight simulator, At the Top - Burj Khalifa
Evening activities: Dinner at Atmosphere, the Burj Khalifa Fountain show (see my 2-minute video here)
TIP: in the area where we stayed, there is a terrific TIMEOUT food court which a wide variety of food to fit any taste and budget. And although we didn't dine at it on this trip, this restaurant is perfectly situated to watch the fountain show and the nightly Burj Khalifa light show.
DAY 4 - the Aquarium and then Sunset in the Dubai desert
Today after a fun trip to the Dubai Mall aquarium, we checked out of our downtown hotel and headed out to the desert. Our destination was an incredible Marriott property called Al Maha Desert Resort and Spa. Only a 50-minute drive from Dubai, this property was located in the middle of the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve. This meant we were surrounded by the desert on all side as well as the wildlife that lived there - including Oryx! I'll be sharing more details about this experience in an upcoming review of the resort. But our experience at this resort truly was extraordinary. Not only are gourmet meals included with a fabulous, private pool suite, but each guest gets to choose two desert experiences each day. On the day we arrived, we selected 'Sundowners on the Dunes' - which meant they drove us out into the desert, where cocktails (and mocktails) were set up in a pop-up cabana. There's really nothing quite like watching the sun go down in the quiet serenity of sand dunes.
Daytime activities: the Dubai Mall Aquarium, Sunset on the Dunes.
Accommodations: Al Maha Desert Resort and Spa.
Day 5 - A Leisurely Morning, a Wildlife Drive and a Camel Ride!
Following our busy days in Dubai, we both felt the need to sleep in this first morning. So we did just that, followed by room service breakfast and some relaxation by the pool (yes, each suite has its own pool!). Later that afternoon, our selected activities included a wildlife drive to see the amazing Oryx, followed by a camel ride into the desert for another glorious sunset. I can't say I'll ever need to ride a camel again (it was a tad uncomfortable), but I'm glad I did it at least once.
Daytime activities: sleep in, relax, wildlife drive, sunset camel ride.
Accommodations: Al Maha Desert Resort and Spa.
Day 6 - A morning of Falconry and then onto Oman
Although our stay at Al Maha resort felt short and we were a bit sad to leave it (ad well as its insanely comfortable bed!), we were also excited about exploring Oman! Our pre-scheduled driver picked us up and we caught a 45-minute afternoon flight to Muscat. This evening we stayed in modest accommodations recommended to us by the rental car company. We would then pick up the 4x4 truck with roof top tent the next morning.
Daytime activities: falconry exhibition at Al Maha resort, flight to Oman
Accommodations: a room at Nomad Tours guesthouse
GO HERE to read and see photos from PART II of this trip - our overland camping adventures in Oman and time in Abu Dhabi.
FAQs - Dubai
How do female tourists need to dress in Dubai? Dubai is very international and far less traditional than Abu Dhabi or Oman. In public during the day, non-muslim, tourist women can comfortably wear short-sleeve T-shirts, skirts of pretty much any length (maybe not a mini-skirt) and even shorts, if they're not butt-hugging short-shorts. I personally wore short-sleeve T-shirts with linen cabana pants during the day. For evening wear at most restaurants, you can wear pretty much any style dress you want, including strapless, leg-showing shorter dresses with high heels. In summary, although the general theme for women in the UAE is 'modesty', there is a wider range of acceptable tourist-women's wear in Dubai.
Is alcohol available in Dubai? Although alcohol is not sold publically in grocery stores in the UAE or Oman, every restaurant we went to offered it on the menu. You can also purchase it at the Duty Free at the airport. As of this post, I believe each tourist is allowed to purchase four (4) bottles.
Is Uber available in Dubai? Yes! And they are really nice cars. Even the lowest price 'economy' uber was a Lexus. But we frequently got picked up in Mercedes, Teslas and BMWs as the 'standard' Uber ride in Dubai.
Is Dubai cheap or expensive for US tourists? Because oil exports are priced in USD, the exchange between UAE dirham and US dollar remains fairly constant (pegged). From out experience, costs in Dubai felt similar to any big city in the US we may travel to. So imagine what you might spend in Los Angeles or New York city. What we paid, when translated into US currency, felt to us about the same as what we'd pay in those metropolitan areas.
How are women treated in Dubai? Locals interacted with me as politely as they would my husband. I felt safe, respected and comfortable.
IF YOU HAVE ANY MORE QUESTIONS, FEEL FREE TO EMAIL ME AT: Jen@paradoxtravels. com
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